Model Lighting Kits Archives

Tie Fighter Lighting Kit

January 23, 2024/in Build Log /by Randy Neubert

Getting Ready:

Unpacking the electronic parts kit, read all documentation & study diagrams. It is also good practice to have your own research material prepared before starting the lighting process. Start by reviewing all the model kit parts, get a general idea of how the model will come together. We will break down the model into two categories: on lighting – effects lighting. The main body comes in an front & rear body half’s. When setting up for the electronics, you will need to build the lighting into the rear half of the body after the main interior cockpit is inplace. The final result will be fewer wire connections as possible between the front & the rear half’s of the body. Pre build, paint & mount leds as you move through the model construction, testing lighting as you go

On Lighting:

All the leds will use the in-line resistor set up, refer to the diagrams. When using this configuration, you have the choice of resistor to choose from to give different output levels for each led. Using the 220-Ohm resistor will give the brightest output within a safe operating range. Using the 1.5 K Ohm resistor will produce a dimmer output, giving you a much softer effect.

Circuit Board:

The main circuit board used to run all the lighting effect will need to be mounted in a wing strut cavity. This is the only space that you can mount the board with in the model, either side can be used & for those that want to access the USB C Port you will need to remove the end mounting pin & leave the wing cover accessible for hook up to the USB Port.

Cockpit Lighting:

The interior cockpit area consists of a two red leds mounted in the very bottom of the mounting rod area. The two red lights are mounted on either side of pilots seat, looking upwards through the clear floor part. You will be using the inline resistor system for each leds used. Light block where need. Pre-built & paint where necessary.

Cockpit leds used are X-2 R 4.8mm wide leds mounted in the bottom of the mounting rod aera. Use 220-ohm resistors & connect to circuit board ports 2-7

Lasers Cannons:

On the front of the ship there are 2 clear laser cannons in clear. These clear parts will need to be taped off or protected on the end tips & the very back where the leds will but against the back of the clear part transfering the light to the end of the tips. Use the X-2 green leds with the 150-ohm in line resistors set up. Connect to circuit board ports 8-9 fro laser cannon effect. You will need to slightly bend the leds & wire’s closer to wing strut so they are not seen by the red floor lights.

Engine Lighting:

The two rear engine lights will be mounted on the back side of the rear main body. You will want to pre light block & mount the clear lens parts in place before installing. The leds will need to be pre fitted in place before you put the interior cockpit inside the rear half of the model. This is a very tight fit & might require some sanding & trimming of the cockpit corners to allow a proper fit of the cockpit interior. The red leds will need to be slightly bent towards the wing strut since the fit is so tight. Use the 220 ohm inline resistor set up for each leds & connect to ports 10-11 on the circuit board.

Wiring Diagram:

Finished Photos:

Build Video:

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Razor Crest Lighting Kit

April 25, 2023/in Build Log /by Randy Neubert

Getting Ready

First start by getting yourself familiar with all the model kit parts & where they are positioned to assemble the model. Second read all the information regarding the model lighting kit & wiring diagram. There are only a few modifications that will need to be made to the model before the lighting system install. This lighting system is more advanced & will require electronic knowledge.

Preparing The Body

One of the first steps is drilling out the main body to transfer wiring into the main body where the controller board is stored. The more passage ways you have for wiring the better, but keep in mind that you are transferring your holes with in the areas inside the model only.

Preparing The Engines

One of the second step is to cut out all the small rear engine shroud slots, I used a hobby knife & some super fine files. The next step there will need to be some porting in and around the engine nacelles. The upper engine mounting blocks will also need drilling & porting. I have added some free downloadable 3D files for internal engine display brackets (THE BRACKETS ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THE KIT) you will need to 3D print them or scratch build the brackets on your own. This also a good time to drill out for all the red diffused marker or position lights, there are two small pairs in the very front drill outs that need need to be made behind the front face part, you want to be careful not to drill all the way through with the 3mm drill bit. All the other marker or position lights are on the upper & lower areas of the forward section of the nacelle.

Cockpit

In the cockpit I took a floor lighting approach, by mounting two small square leds bent at a 90 degree angle flush mounted to the floor. There are two zones, FORWARD MAIN COCKPIT & AFT MECHANICAL ROOM. You will need to drill out with a #64 bit pinvise four small enough holes to send led leads through the floorboard. Its easiest to bend the led leads on the bottom side of the floor & solder your resistors, wire & shrink tubing. I prebuilt the floor with the leds mounted before I put the interior together and mounted it in the model.

Engine Display Boards

After all the parts have been almost 100% pre painted you can start figuring out the display bracket. This is also a good time to finish off the the rest of the nacelle marker lights & wire them in place. There are two ways of making the display brackets that hold them, A I give you the free stl file & you print them or B you scratch build the display holder. The free file for the bracket is on the order page.

Engine Close Up & Mount

After setting the engine display boards & testing all the lighting you can fit and mount the engines on the wings. You want to pay close attention to wires well fitting these parts together and closing up the model. Its best to run all the bulk wiring to farthest point, the rear cargo door. Running the wire out of model will give you great access to soldering all the leds up to the board. Test ever contact point before closing any access to the circuit board or wiring.

Wiring Diagram

Finished Photos

Star Wars razor Crest Lighting Kit Front

Spindrift Lighting Kit

December 1, 2021/in Build Log /by Randy Neubert

Getting Ready:

First start by getting yourself familiar with all the model kit parts & where they are positioned to assemble the model. Second read all the information regarding the model lighting kit wiring diagram. There are only a few modifications that will need to be made for the lighting system.

Preparing The Parts:

If you have the aftermarket parts from Yaymonsters than you will not need to perform this action. The three main parts that you will need to be drilled out are the Intake Grills, Rear Engine Grill & Interior Fusion Reactor wall. It is best to start with a small pinvise & #64 drill bit or 3/32″ bit. Drill out all the holes for the intake & engine grills, for the reactor wall I make 6 small holes around the diamond shape edge’s, then take a hobby knife & cut from hole to hole, poping out the center section. You will need a small set of files to clean up and trim to edge.

Diffusion Material:

After cutting out all the areas on the intake, engine & reactor wall you will need to back them with some diffusion material. The intake looks the best with the standard “White Milky Diffusion” cut to fit the tear drop shape and glue in place with some standard white glue. The rear engine looks the best with the 3D material, cut to fit and mount. I also preferred to use the 3D material on the reactor wall as well. Mount in place again using the white glue meathode. You will also need to scratch build a set of led brackets to hold the leds in place, I have provided a 3D file link as well if you want to print them on your own. Sorry to say the tear drop ones where done by scratch. When mounting your red leds it would be best to use the 150 Ohm resistor combo to power both the intake & engine effect for the brightest look.

Reactor Wall:

The back interior reactor wall requires a light box to be constructed to hold the light in. You will want to mount the blue led on the bottom of the box, having the led looking straight up. Use the 3D Diffusion material on the back side of the reactor wall, glue in place. It would be best to use the 220 Ohm resistors for effect in this area.

Cockpit & Passenger Area:

The front cockpit area has three main lighting features. One the main front screen & the two side monitors. You will want to use one red led for the front main screen, use a small piece of milky white diffusion material under the cut out of main screen. The two left & right side monitors is a warm white led mounted be hide diffusion material. The passenger are is also using one warm white led mounted on back wall above the doorway. It would be best to use the 1.5K Ohm resistors for a dimmer effect in these areas.

Dome Light:

The main center dome light is also going to use a red on light only. You will need to scratch build a led support for mounting the light above the walkway roof. It would be best to use the 220 ohm resistors for this feature. A small piece of the white milky material can be placed directly over the top of the led to make more cast light for the dome.